At a Glance
From Zagreb to Dubrovnik – This trip was an impulse in 2013. I had just watched a Croatia episode of one of Anthony Bourdain’s shows. All I could think was that “I must go there.” A few months later I was in Croatia for a 2-week trip that took us from Zagreb to Dubrovnik.
Itinerary
Day 1 – Arrival in Zagreb
Day 2 – Zagreb
Day 3 – Drive to Plitvice National Park (rental car)
Day 4 – Plitvice National Park
Day 5 – Travel to Hvar (by rental car and passenger ferry)
Days 6/7 – Hvar
Day 8 – Travel to Dubrovnik (by passenger ferry and bus)
Days 9/10/11/12 – Dubrovnik
Day 13 – Return home
Stories
Zagreb – The capital city is probably missed by a lot of travelers heading to Croatia, but it’s a wonderful city worth visiting. We had no real plans for our day in Zagreb, and just grabbed a map from our B&B host and started wandering. We found beautiful streets and shops, cute little bars and restaurants, small museums, historic buildings, and local open-air markets.
Plitvice National Park – We rented a car when we left Zagreb as it’s the best way to get to and from Plitvice. The park itself is full of waterfalls and rivers, but so is the surrounding community. We had found a small B&B located a few miles from the park entrance. The B&B was literally on top of a river in a very small community of maybe 6 homes. A wooden walkway over the water connects the parking area to the front door. The owner is a retired park employee who had lots of great tips and tricks. He also drew us a map of the best route through the park. The pictures speak for themselves. This park is amazingly beautiful. However, it does get very crowded. It’s worth it to go off season and arrive at opening.
Hvar – No trip to Croatia would be complete without a little island hopping. It took a few hours to drive from Plitvice to Split, where we turned the rental car in. After buying ferry tickets for Hvar, we found a cute cafe to wait.
We had 2 full days in Hvar. On the first day we did a day trip that included boating and time on nearby island. The other day was spent exploring the island and taking a wine tour.
Dubrovnik – [… more coming soon]
Highlights
The best lunch ever – While walking through Zagreb, we encountered a pedestrian street full of outdoor cafes and restaurants. We decided that a beer and a snack would be great way to enjoy the great weather and ambience. The area was very quiet, but everything was open. We picked one that had a very lovely outdoor space and ordered a beer. We were the only people in restaurant.
When our beer was brought over, the server (maybe also the owner?) indicated that they had just picked up some great fresh seafood and produce at the market – remember those markets I mentioned earlier? He said that he’d love to put together a tasting menu for us and pair each course with local wine. He mentioned a few possible food items, and they all sounded amazing. My cousin and I looked briefly at one another and said yes. We said yes without asking any questions. We didn’t even inquire about the price. Have you ever been in one of those small moments that just feels right? We just knew this was going to be great. It could have ended with a huge bill and mediocre food, but it didn’t. Trusting that moment led to one of the best (and cheapest) meals of my life.
We sat there for almost 3 hours enjoying about 5 courses. I can no longer recall what we ate, but clearly remember the pleasure of eating one course, then relaxing with that course’s wine, while looking forward to whatever surprise course would come next. Food is culture, and this was the best introduction possible to the amazing cuisine we would find across Croatia.
Walking Dubrovnik’s walls and the Buza Bar – [… more coming soon]
Travel Tips
Mix and match travel modes – In different parts of Croatia, different modes of transport are more efficient. [… more coming soon]
Open-air markets – Don’t miss the markets! [… more coming soon]
The Toad on the Road 